CBB60, CBB65 and CD60 are capacitor body codes, not values. CBB60 and CBB65 are polypropylene-film run capacitors that stay energised the whole time the motor runs (CBB60 is the lighter plastic-cased can, CBB65 a heavier metal can); CD60 is an electrolytic start capacitor that is in circuit only for the first moment of start-up. Run and start capacitors are not interchangeable — match the body code, microfarad value (µF, within about ±5%) and voltage stamped on your original part.
If you’ve opened up your pump and found a capacitor stamped CBB60, CBB65 or CD60, those codes tell you exactly what type of part it is. Get the type right and your motor runs as designed. Get it wrong and you can damage the windings. Here’s what each code means and how to choose.
Before touching any capacitor, isolate power at the breaker and discharge it — see Safety below. A capacitor can hold a dangerous charge even with the power off and the pump unplugged.
What do CBB60, CBB65 and CD60 mean?
These are standard capacitor body codes, and they describe the technology and the duty, not the value.
- CBB60 — a polypropylene film run capacitor. Continuous duty: it stays in circuit the whole time the motor runs. Common on pumps, often in a round or oval can with a flying lead or spade terminals.
- CBB65 — also a polypropylene film run capacitor, continuous duty, but typically a heavier-duty metal can (often oil-filled) with stud or spade terminals. Used on motors, air-con and larger pumps.
- CD60 — an electrolytic start capacitor. Short duty only: it’s in circuit just for the brief moment of start-up, then a switch or relay drops it out. It is not rated for continuous running.
The single most important distinction: CBB60 and CBB65 are RUN capacitors (continuous), CD60 is a START capacitor (short-duty, start-up only). Never use a CD60 where a run capacitor belongs — it isn’t built to stay energised and will fail.
How do CBB60, CBB65 and CD60 compare?
| Feature | CBB60 | CBB65 | CD60 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type | Film (polypropylene) | Film (polypropylene) | Electrolytic |
| Function | Run | Run | Start |
| Duty | Continuous | Continuous | Short-duty (start only) |
| Typical body | Round/oval can | Metal can, often oil-filled | Black plastic case |
| Typical terminals | Flying lead or spade | Spade or stud | Flying lead or spade |
| Stays in circuit while running? | Yes | Yes | No |
| Typical use | Pumps, fans, pool motors | Larger pumps, motors, HVAC | High-torque start-up |
How do I tell which one my pump needs?
Don’t choose by guesswork or by another owner’s pump. Choose by what your machine was built with.
- Read the existing capacitor. Its body code (CBB60 / CBB65 / CD60), its capacitance in microfarads (µF) and its voltage rating are all printed on it.
- Check the motor nameplate. Many pumps list the run capacitor value there too.
- Match the type and the value. Replace a run cap with a run cap, a start cap with a start cap. The µF must match within about ±5%. A higher voltage rating is a safe substitute (e.g. 450V in place of 370V); a higher µF is not — wrong capacitance damages motors.
Some motors use both: a CD60 start capacitor to get moving and a CBB-series run capacitor to keep things smooth. If yours has two, note which is which before you remove anything.
For help decoding the printed numbers, see how to read a capacitor label. If your pump has two or three terminals on the cap, our guide to pump capacitor wiring will help.
Safety before you remove anything
A capacitor holds a dangerous charge even with the power off and the pump unplugged.
- Isolate power at the breaker.
- Discharge the capacitor by bridging its terminals with a bleed resistor (around 10–20 kΩ, 5 W) or a proper capacitor discharge tool — a bare insulated-handle screwdriver across the terminals also drains it but sparks violently and can pit the terminals, so use that only as a last resort.
- Then disconnect and read the part.
In NZ, fixed mains wiring legally requires a licensed electrician. If your pump is hard-wired or you’re unsure, use one.
Do the terminals have to match too?
Even with the right type and value, the terminal style has to fit your wiring:
- Spade / lug — push-on flat connectors.
- Flying lead — wires come straight out of the capacitor.
- Stud — threaded post, common on CBB65 cans.
Match the terminal type so you’re not splicing or adapting connectors unnecessarily.
Quick decision guide
- Motor needs a part that runs continuously → CBB60 or CBB65 (match the can/terminal style your motor uses).
- Part only kicks in at start-up and drops out → CD60.
- Two capacitors fitted → replace each like-for-like.
What to do next
Confirm the body code, µF and voltage on your own capacitor, then match it exactly (voltage can be equal or higher).
- See the full pump capacitors range.
- Let our find-your-capacitor wizard narrow it down for you.
- Pool pump? Browse the pool capacitor range.
CapacitorsNZ — use the wizard to find your exact match, then shop pump capacitors or the pool range.
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