If your pool pump won’t start, hums, or runs hot, the capacitor is a prime suspect — and the first question is always: what size do I need? The short answer is the size printed on your own capacitor or motor nameplate. Here’s how to find it and what the numbers mean.
The golden rule: read your own label
There is no single “correct” µF for all pool pumps. Even two pumps that look identical can use different capacitors depending on motor design. Never trust a value you found for a model online or guess from the horsepower. The wrong capacitance stops the motor starting, makes it run hot, and can burn out the windings.
Instead, read the rating off your own part:
- On the capacitor body you’ll see something like “30 µF 450V” plus a tolerance (often ±5%).
- The motor nameplate may also list the required capacitor µF and voltage.
Match those numbers exactly. That’s the size your pool pump needs.
Safety before you look
The capacitor holds a dangerous charge even when the pump is switched off and unplugged.
- Isolate the power at the breaker before opening anything.
- Discharge the capacitor by bridging its terminals with a bleed resistor (around 10–20 kΩ, 5 W) or a proper capacitor discharge tool — a bare insulated-handle screwdriver across the terminals also drains it but sparks violently and can pit the terminals, so use that only as a last resort.
- In NZ, fixed mains wiring must be done by a licensed electrician. If your pump is hard-wired or you’re unsure, get a sparky in.
Typical ranges (a guide, not a spec)
To set expectations only — single-phase domestic pool pumps commonly fall in these rough ranges:
- Run capacitors: often somewhere around 15–40 µF, rated 400–450V.
- Start capacitors (where fitted): a much higher capacitance than a run cap — typically tens to low hundreds of µF (e.g. around 50–250 µF), at a lower voltage like 250V, and only in circuit briefly during start-up.
These are ballpark figures to help you sanity-check a reading — not a value to order from. Always confirm against the printed label on your capacitor or nameplate.
Run vs start: which does a pool pump use?
Most modern single-phase pool pumps are permanent-split capacitor (PSC) motors that use a single run capacitor that stays in circuit the whole time. Some older or higher-torque pumps add a start capacitor that drops out once the motor is spinning.
Knowing which type you have tells you what to buy. If you’re not sure, see our explainer on run vs start capacitors.
Body codes you’ll see
The code printed on the can tells you the type:
- CBB60 — the film run capacitor most single-phase pool pumps use (and the type we supply). CBB65 does the same job in a round metal can, seen on some larger or older units.
- CD60 — electrolytic start capacitor, used for the brief start-up boost.
Match the body code as well as the µF and voltage. You can fit a higher voltage rating (e.g. swap a 400V for a 450V) but keep the µF the same.
Quick checklist before you buy
- Capacitance: same µF as your old cap / nameplate.
- Voltage: equal or higher than the original.
- Type: a film run capacitor (CBB60 is the common one) — or a CD60 start cap where one is fitted. Match what your pump uses.
- Terminals: spade/quick-connect vs wire leads — check what your pump uses.
- Physical size: make sure it fits the housing or clamp.
Not sure what you’re reading? Our pump capacitors guide explains every marking, and the find your capacitor wizard turns your label details into the right part.
Get the right pool pump capacitor
Read the µF and voltage off your capacitor, then let us match it. Start with the find your capacitor wizard or browse pool pump capacitors.
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